fruit notes

Cherimoya is native to the steep, mountainous highlands of Ecuador and Peru, but it’s really become an adopted kid of California. In past fruit notes, we’ve detailed how cherimoya flowers must be painstakingly hand-pollinated, as their chubby petals don’t readily allow access to larger pollinators like the honeybee. This means the crew is in the orchard, gathering and distributing pollen with a paintbrush, to meticulously paint each flower they can find during the blooming season. On an 1853 expedition to Peru, a Bohemian botanist deemed cherimoya “a masterpiece of nature”. (This seems sensationalist until you consider what the gastronomical experience of a 19th century northern European diet must have been – then, yeah, it tracks.) And given what it takes to cultivate cherimoyas here, now, the comment seems prescient.

With summer warmth and the moderating influence of the Pacific, Santa Barbara’s climate has turned out to be a great match. The first cherimoyas were brought over from Mexico in 1871 and planted in Carpinteria, just 20 miles south of Condor Ridge Ranch in Santa Barbara County. Beginning in the 1920s and ‘30s, Los Angeles growers tried to commercialize the fruit. They largely failed because they didn’t quite understand the pollination mechanism, leading to wildly uneven yields. (But these experiments did produce some interesting cultivars, including the Booth!) By the late 60’s, agronomists had a better understanding of the plant, and growers in Carpineteria renewed efforts at commercialization. Over the next several decades, this area became the center of cherimoya production in the country. Seventy years on, California is the only state that produces cherimoya commercially for the US market. (Florida’s tropical climate seems like it’d be an ideal for cherimoya, but it’s actually too hot and humid to do well there.) Because the fruit is so delicious, the demand from California fruit eaters far outstrips supply, and very little even leaves the state.

Growing up in Los Angeles, farmer Jay Ruskey attended Cheremoya Elementary School – actually! The school’s name is a relic of those 1920’s cherimoya groves. The school has three old cherimoya trees on its grounds, so perhaps this was his destiny. Over the next couple of weeks, Condor Ridge will pick the last few harvests of cherimoya for us. They are PEAK custardy texture and flavor. Store on the counter until slightly soft, like a ripe avocado or peach, usually 3-4 days. I highly recommend chilling before eating. Grown organically by Condor Ridge Ranch in Goleta.

Jim Cochran, founder and farmer of Swanton Berry Farm, is growing three acres of strawberries this year. And as it’s been for most of the past forty-something years, they are nearly all Chandler strawberries. Jim reached out as soon as he figured he had enough berries to send to the fruit fan club. This time of year can be tricky with spring rains, but the last several weeks have shown extremely favorable weather and local strawberries are here!! First Swanton Chandlers of the season. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Swanton Berry Farm in Davenport.

Northern California Page mandarin season wraps up in early February. But citrus that’s grown further south in Fallbrook, just north of San Diego, can hang on the trees several months longer. It only continues to sweeten up, making for wildly sweet and delicious spring citrus. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Garcia Organic Farm in Fallbrook.

This is an early harvest of ripe San Joaquin blueberries from Coastal Moon Farm! The berries are much bigger, and will fully come into production in the next couple of weeks. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Coastal Moon Farm in Watsonville. 

The cult-classic Ojai Pixie mandarins! Ojai is the perfect microclimate for growing sweet and flavorful PIxie mandarins! It’s the last mandarin of the season for us. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Churchill Orchard in Ojai.

We’ve been enjoying Garcia Organic Farm’s kumquats all winter and spring. This is the last week for Nagami kumquats, and imho, they are the best in the spring! The skin is sweet and the flesh is zingy tart and you can eat the whole little citrus in one bite for the ultimate citrus experience. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Garcia Organic Farm in Fallbrook.

These classic Hayward kiwis are a familiar variety but farmer Ruthanne measures the sugars and waits to harvest until they are nearly double the standard of big, commercial growers. Enjoy firm or keep on the counter until they’re softer. Grown organically by Shared Abundance Organic Farm in Auburn.