fruit notes
Cathy and Michael of Spreadwing Farm grow a small number of citrus varieties. Those they focus on, they do a really job with! Over the next few weeks, they’re harvesting Owari Satsuma mandarins for us. They are juicy, easy to peel, and possess that dynamic tension of sugar and acid that make Owaris such a fave! The forty trees in their Satsuma block are about nine years old, so they are just coming into their own. Last year nearly their entire crop was lost to early rains. With a dry and cold fall this year, the mandarins have sweetened up week over week. (Though yes — we’re still doing the rain dance!) Store on the counter. Grown organically by Spreadwing Farm in Rumsey.
I’ve always believed early December is prime time for Fuyu persimmons in Northern California, and this season, growers like Shared Abundance Farm have proven it. These Fuyus are sweet and fully ripe, yet still firm. I grew up eating peeled Fuyu persimmons, thanks to my mama and grandma who always lovingly peeled and cut fruit for us. 💗 Only as an adult have I started to eat Fuyu persimmons with the skin-on. That said, many late-season Fuyus develop tough, leathery skin that demands peeling — so when we get ones like Ruthanne’s with thin skin, firm flesh, and just the right sweetness? That’s magic. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Shared Abundance Farm in Auburn.
Kiwis are one of those crops that are hard to find grown on a small-scale. Even moreso, to find a small kiwi farm that is female-owned! Last year, I became obsessed with the uncommon Bruno kiwis from Ruthanne. These Foothill-grown kiwis are amazing. Ruthanne grows both Hayward and Bruno varieties and pushes the limits on sweetness. She measures the sugars and waits to harvest until they are nearly double the standard of big, commercial growers. The Bruno kiwis have a fan club of their own. They’re elongated and have this gorgeous translucence when ripe. They are so sweet and tasty; Ruthanne tells me they fly off her table at markets. You can let them soften on the counter or eat them firm now where they will be a little tart. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Shared Abundance Organic Farm in Auburn.
Juan and Coco Garcia started Garcia Organic Farm on nine acres of sunny slopes in Fallbrook, northern San Diego County, in 1989. They’ve since grown to 27 acres: citrus, avocados, guavas, cherimoyas, figs, persimmons, and more! They’ve committed to farming organically since Day 1 and they’re incredibly proud of that. Beaumont Mexican guavaseason is in full swing and will continue for a couple of months. The fruit is picked green and needs a few days on the counter to ripen. By the time the skin has ripened to yellow, you’ll be smelling that alluring tropical aroma from the next room! The flesh becomes thick, creamy, and deeply flavored. The seeds are edible but quite hard, so slice and eat fresh (skin and all), perhaps alongside citrus – but take care with the seeds. Store on the counter for 2-4 days until the skin turns yellow. Grown organically by Garcia Organic Farm in Fallbrook.
Inga edulis or Ice Cream Beans, are just starting up at Condor Ridge in Goleta. They are often planted alongside coffee to provide shade, wind protection, and soil enrichment. It’s extremely fast-growing and even though it’s a legume, it grows in the habit of a tree! The real treat is the sweet, custardy white pulp in each pod. Inside sits a big black “bean” — ostensibly edible when cooked, though we typically discard it. To eat: use a paring knife to slice just a bit off one end, peeling back the leathery skin like you’re opening a bean pod (you are). Pop a segment of the creamy flesh in your mouth and spit out the seed. For maximum ice-cream-like texture, enjoy cold! Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Condor Ridge Ranch in Goleta.
It’s pretty special that Stan still has apples hanging on the trees in December. His Pink Lady apples are one of the few standing! This late into the season, nearly all California-grown apples have been harvested. As PNW apple growers dominate the market in volume, price, and availability, it’s hard for California growers to compete when the season starts up north. But with most things, we’re here for the flavor and the stories. Stan Devoto has always been our favorite apple guy, and nothing beats his patience and care, waiting until apples are truly ripe and flavorful before picking. He makes multiple passes on a single variety, only harvesting what’s ready. His orchard is dry-farmed and truly organic, which means his apples aren’t always the prettiest but they sure are the tastiest! These Pink Lady apples are delicious: sweet and tart, juicy, and really nicely crisp. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Devoto Orchards in Sebastopol.
To have California-grown blueberries from the Central Coast in the middle of December never ceases to amaze me. Forbidden Fruit Orchards is perfectly situated on a southern SLO County slope, 12 miles from the ocean, protected from frost. At the western edge of the Santa Ynez wine-growing region, the mountain range funnels in cool, temperate air, allowing for a longer hang time and slower ripening. This week, farm manager Lalo and his crew picked Sapphire blueberries for us and they are tasty! A balanced flavor with great texture. This variety has a growth habit that’s lower and more sprawling which makes it more challenging to harvest, but Lalo says it’s worth it! Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Forbidden Fruit Orchards in Lompoc.
