fruit notes

We – and you may, too – know Lagier Ranches for their delicious Bing and Rainier cherries in June, their ethereal Bronx grapes at the end of summer, their world’s best no-longer-available almond butter, and of course, their Page mandarins in the winter. But John has been farming since 1979, and over the years he’s grown an astonishing number of crops. Melons, blueberries, marionberries, boysenberries, sour cherries, pawpaws, gooseberries — you name it. I’ve known John for over a decade now, and it amazes me that I am still learning about new things he once grew that I had no idea about.

John is the fourth generation to tend his family’s land, with each generation diversifying the farm further by introducing new crops. He transitioned the orchard to organic production in the 1990s and, in the 2000s, with Casey as the driving force, added preserves, pickles, and other value-added goods to create a more diversified and sustainable operation.

John is one of those farmers who really inspire us to do this work. Throughout his entire farming career, he’s taken risks, been a thoughtful steward of the land, tried new things, experimented with new products, and pushed the limits of harvesting for peak flavor and quality. Most admirable is his steady compassion for everyone involved in farming — for the farm crew, the harvesters, the pack crew, and customers and buyers alike. We often call farmers like this “really smart farmers,” but that phrase doesn’t begin to do justice. On top of it all, John has just grown some of the best damn fruit out there.

If you ask me what my favorite fruit of the winter season is, without a doubt I’d say Page mandarins. And it’s absolutely true: John and Casey of Lagier Ranches grow the world’s finest Pages. Multiple times throughout the year I find myself thinking, “Wow, I can’t wait for Page season this winter!” They really are that good.

The Page mandarin is a cross between a clementine and a Minneola tangelo, which — no offense to either — doesn’t quite explain its knock-your-socks-off flavor. It’s not the easiest to peel, as the segments cling tightly together, but the flavor and texture are 100% worth it. The sugars are high, the juice is off the charts, and the flavor is just a distillation of orange nectar. We recommend quartering the mandarins and peeling from there, or eating them like mini orange slices.

We love welcoming the new year with Rainwater Ranch’s Washington Navel oranges. These are so flavorful in part because they’re grown on trees over 50 years old! They’ll be harvested for only a few short weeks. If you haven’t experienced a Rainwater Navel in January, you’re in for a treat! Store on the counter. Grown organically by Rainwater Ranch in Winters.

Cara Cara orange season is fully here and the January fruit has a really nice balance of sugars and acid! The flavor is so good. They will continue to get sweeter as the acid begins to fade later in the season. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Murray Family Farms in Bakersfield.

Ruthanne has a small but very special crop of Bruno kiwis, slightly elongated in shape compared with the more common Hayward variety. Something I love about Bruno kiwis is you can let it get really, really soft without turning. Cut the tip off and just squeeze the kiwi into your mouth like a fruit gusher. Or you can enjoy it firm :) Store on the counter. Grown organically by Shared Abundance Farm in Auburn.

Last local apples of the season! We’re still enjoying these sweet-tart Pink Lady apples from Stan. They’re juicy and crisp and ridiculously flavorful. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Devoto Orchards in Sebastopol. 

Melogold grapefruit is a white grapefruit that’s harvested before the ever so popular Oro Blanco. It’s got a really shiny golden skin in January and has seen some weather hanging on the trees through those December storms. But they’re big, juicy, and fragrant, with no bitterness. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Farmboy Organics in Winters.

Cathy and Michael’s Satsuma mandarins made it through the storms the past few weeks with still some delicious acid in the fruit?! Maybe because the peel is amazingly lumpy and thick, providing a protective layer. These Capay Valley mandarins amaze us. It’s been a challenging Satsuma season for farmers throughout the state. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Spreadwing Farm in Rumsey.