fruit notes

The first time I brought my grandma a donut peach after working at the farmers market (circa 2013?!), she marveled at the flat white peaches and, in her native Toisan dialect, exclaimed, “Wow, look at those bak king hau!” I don’t read or write Chinese, so I had to Google the transliteration – 北京桃 translates to “Beijing peach.” I remember asking her why they were called Beijing peaches, but like many of my why questions, she didn’t really have an explanation.

After some research, I found out that people in the Pinggu district northeast of Beijing have been growing peaches for over 1,700 years. The region is home to some of the largest peach orchards in China. It’s often referred to as the “hometown of peaches.” The region’s landscape – surrounded by mountains, with sandy soil, abundant water, and ideal day-to-night temperature shifts – makes it perfect for peach-growing. Not only is the region famous for growing super sweet peaches, but donut peaches, or flat peaches, are among the district’s most renowned varieties. For my grandma, donut peaches and Beijing peaches are one and the same. And though she doesn’t care for yellow peaches at all, donut peaches were always the exception.

There’s a phrase my grandma uses often: 熱氣 yeet-hay. It directly translates to “hot air”. There are foods that give you yeet-hay and there are foods that can cool yeet-hay. Too much yeet-hay food causes an imbalance in your body, leading to illness. Cherries and yellow peaches, for example, are yeet-hay, so I was instructed not to eat too many (specifically, no more than eleven cherries…) Despite being, well, a peach, white donut peaches are not yeet-hay. This never quite made sense to young me (but a budding fruit lover takes what she can get!) Later, when I learned that donut peaches are descendents of the peentau peach, a flat peach variety considered the “peach of immortality” in China, it all made a little more sense. 

Flat peaches have been cultivated in China for centuries, but they were first imported to North America in 1828. They didn’t catch on right away – likely because growers here focused more on yellow peaches than white-fleshed types. But over a century later, in the 1980s, Stark Bro’s Nursery acquired the patent for some of the varieties we see today, and donut peaches – also known as flat peaches or peento peaches – have caught on! These early-summer Galaxy white donut peaches are amazing. They’re sweet, juicy, soft, and floral. Store them on the counter until they’re ripe to your liking. Grown organically by Terra Firma Farms in Winters.

This is the last week of John Lagier’s Bing cherries as the small California cherry crop winds down. John’s cherries are harvested and packed with the utmost care and they are incredibly delicious. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Lagier Ranches in Escalon.

These delicate Tayberries are a cross between a red raspberry and a blackberry. They have such a unique flavor, both sweet and tart! These are super limited and we’re lucky to get some from Yerena despite their super small harvest. These are perishable: eat them quickly or keep in the fridge for up to 2 days. Grown organically by Yerena Farms in Watsonville.

San Joaquin blueberries are big, sweet, and delicious! Local blueberry season is winding down quickly with just a couple more weeks left. This is Coastal Moon’s last variety that will carry them through the end of the season. Store in the fridge. Grown organically by Coastal Moon Farm in Watsonville.

It’s all hands on deck at Spreadwing Farm during Blenheim apricot season! This week and the week to come are peak harvest times. The fruit is ripening up quickly in the June heat and we love how farmers Cathy and Michael capture the perfect window of ripeness for their Blenheims. Blenheims ripen inside-out, so store them on the counter and watch them transform – but they're closer than they look! Grown organically by Spreadwing Farm in Rumsey.

Last week of Masumoto’s Gold Dust yellow peaches! Even with a much smaller crop this year, the flavor has been out-of-this-world good. The Gold Dusts are super juicy, silky in texture, and aromatic and flavorful all around. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Masumoto Family Farm in Del Rey.

Pluots are just starting up and we’ll see new varieties come in almost weekly through late summer and fall. We’re starting with Toby’s Flavor Royale pluots which are sweet, juicy, and have a beautiful red flesh. Pluots can be eaten firm or can be left to relax and soften a bit. Store on the counter. Grown organically by Free Spirit Farm in Winters.