fruit notes

Not all Honeycrisp apples are the same. We say that about a lot of fruit, but it’s especially true for Honeycrisps – a variety that has become a commodity stocked in almost every grocery store nearly year-round. It’s a great apple that has fallen victim to its own success. Since its introduction in the mid-1990s, the Honeycrisp has seen a meteoric rise in popularity. It is now the third-most widely grown apple in the US, just a few million bushels behind the Red Delicious (whose demise cannot come soon enough). This commercial success has led to growers planting them in less-than-ideal climates and storing them for far too long, all while still charging a premium.

Stan Devoto, along with his longtime crew, grows over 100 apple varieties on about 27 acres in Sebastopol. Stan grows apples unlike anyone else I’ve met. Most of his trees are heirloom varieties nearly 50 years old, and his orchard is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Every tree is carefully thinned and shaped by hand, and between the rows is a lush cover crop that Stan rushes to seed before the rains come in the fall. Some of his apple rows are even interplanted with seasonal cut flowers. Apart from his young trees, his orchards have no irrigation lines, meaning his apples are dry-farmed, relying on their deep roots to find moisture stored in the earth.

Stan harvests all of his apples fresh and delivers them straight to us, never stored in cold storage. He doesn’t have to do it this way, but he has a deep commitment to delivering apples that are perfectly ripe and truly fresh. He grows many of our favorite heirloom varieties, but biting into one of his Honeycrisps reminds me why the variety became so popular in the first place. Behind its bright, thin skin is a juicy, snappy bite that floods your mouth with sweet juice and a tangy finish. I find myself taking another bite before I’ve finished the first. A Devoto Honeycrisp is unlike any other.

Stan is nearing his mid-70s and still planting new apple trees. An inspiration to us all! Store on the counter or in the fridge. Grown organically by Devoto Orchards in Sebastopol.

This is the first substantial fruit set of white sapote from Steven Murray at Murray Family Farms! This week, we’re focusing on his Leroy and Suebelle varieties. These will arrive mostly green and need a few days on the counter. They’re ripe when they turn slightly yellow become soft to touch like a ripe avocado. We like to cut them in half and eat the custardy flesh with a spoon! Scoop the flesh away from the skin and make sure to dodge the large seeds in the center. The flavor is like tropical pudding, with subtle peach and pear flavor notes! Store on the counter. Grown organically by Murray Family Farms in Bakersfield.

Shinko pears have a beautiful burnt orange skin and a super crisp and juicy bite with notes of spice, citrus, and butterscotch sweetness. Grown locally in Vacaville, the Valerian family at Bucktown Roots became the new stewards of an old walnut and pear orchard in 2020. For the past few years, they’ve been humbled by these old trees that bear such tasty fruit, in awe of what they can learn from them. Shinko pears are a Japanese variety that’s one of my favorites, with close ties to Nijisseikis. Store in the fridge to maintain crispiness. Grown organically in Vacaville by Bucktown Roots.

Coffee Cake persimmons are a Fuyu-type, which means they are flatter, non-astringent, and can be eaten firm. They are one of the earliest persimmon varieties, ripening weeks before Fuyus come onto the scene. This variety has spice notes reminiscent of cinnamon pastries (hence the name) that compliment the sweetness! A cross section of these Coffee Cake persimmons will reveal a speckly brown flesh inside. These are harvested firm, ripe, and sweet. Persimmons will continue to ripen on the counter, where they will become softer, if that’s your preference. Store these on the counter. Grown organically by Free Spirit Farm in Winters. 

We like to pay respects to the first California-grown mango that we were introduced to. Mangoes were first planted in the Coachella Valley in 1984. A collective of growers now farm on a total of 250 acres, marketing the mangoes under the “Ava’s Mangos” label, named after one of the mango growers’ daughters. These growers are the only ones producing mangoes at a commercial scale in the state. The Keitt mango is green-skinned and BIG, averaging a pound to a pound and a half each. They have sweet, nearly fiberless flesh and a small pit. And because they are grown domestically, they are not treated with a hot-water bath like imports, preserving flavor and aroma. In the years since, I’ve discovered newer, shinier (tree-ripened) mangoes – hello Wong Farms!! – but I still have a deep appreciation for these Keitt mangoes. It’s a great piece of fruit! Keitt mangoes remain green when ripe so you’ll want to use touch rather than sight to determine ripeness. When it yields to gentle pressure, like an avocado, it’s time to dig in. These may need 2-4 days on the counter to become fully ripe. Grown organically by Ava’s Mangos in Riverside County. 

Thea and Andres of Gauchito Hill Farm grow some of the most delicious fruit on their farm in the Capay Valley. In particular, we love their figs and their blackberries! As the season winds down, Gauchito has a limited amount of blackberries and they’re harvesting a special blip of Prime Ark blackberries for this fruity fan club this week. Store them in the fridge. Grown organically by Gauchito Hill Farm in the Capay Valley.

Fresh jujubes are here! (No, not those jujubes.) Fresh jujubes are such a rare gift. I grew up seeing them on my kitchen table throughout September. Dried, they’re a common ingredient in Chinese and Korean cooking. Fresh, they resemble a tiny apple with a bit more complexity. Jujubes range in color from green to dark red when fresh and have a small pit in the center. Gisele from Vitis and Ovis grows three varieties: Li, Lang, and Sugarcane, and she’s packed them in a field blend for us. Store them on the counter or the fridge. They are ripe and ready to eat. Grown organically by Vitis and Ovis Farm in Capay.